One of the best kits ever made is Eduard's DVa. This particular release has no pe parts but in my opinion they're a bit small and fiddly and only get in the way of really enjoying this kit. For this build I'll be using eagle Strikes Flying Circus part VIII. The aircraft is from Jasta 18 in 1918. Thanks to Eagle Strike I have at least another dozen Albatros' to build in the future!
Get out your tiny drill bits and enlarge the holes for all of the struts-wing and landing gear. Just a bit though not too big. Then get your teeniest bit and drill the holes in the wings and fuselage for the rigging. The rigging for the landing gear gets attached to the fuselage as does the rigging that goes from just behind the propeller to the lower wing. These 2 sets need to be glued into the fuselage by simply tying a knot in the end to they can't pull through and adding a spot of superglue to hold them in place. These are the only 2 sets that need to be added before construction because their anchor points are impossible to get to once the fuselage is glued together.
Painting the fuselage interior doesn't need to be perfect, very little is seen once the kit is finished. I simply followed the instructions.
I didn't showcase the engine assembly-sorry. Simply paint it black (I like metalizer exhaust). The block is supposed to be silver but, again, it can't be seen once the fuselage is assembled. With the interior and engine in place the fuselage can be buttoned up and the tailplanes can be added.
With the fuselage seams checked and sanded where necessary, I sprayed the fuselage white and, when dry, masked the demarcation line for the red paint on the forward half. Before I painted the red I sprayed some white along the tape to prevent the red from bleeding under.
While I had the red out for the fuselage I painted the top of the wings red as well and removed the struts and cleaned up the mold lines and painted those and the wheels red (everything first got a coat of white along with the fuselage. I did this to make sure the red matched. When they dried I assembled the lower wing and landing gear struts. Then I positioned the wing struts by gluing them to the lower wing and then turning the plane upside down and inserting them into the locator holes in the top wing (setting on a table) when dry the top wing can be removed and the struts will be positioned properly.
You have to be careful with that rigging-make sure it doesn't get stuck or mar the paint. Use a brush dipped in thinner to remove any paint on the rigging.
While the top wings off I touched up the ammo bins with some silver. The rigging for the landing gear was done simply by pulling the rigging tight and super gluing the loose end to the axle opposite it and trimming when dry. The engine cowl to wing rigging was done bit lightly tacked with surer glue. I didn't want to use a good bubble of glue because the hole this rigging goes through is used by other runs of rigging and I don't want it to get super glued shut. The rigging is held in place and out of the way with a piece of tape on the underside of the wing. The upper wing can now be glued in place.
With the upper wing in place and dry the job of rigging begins. Without going into too much detail I started on the rear hole for the aileron rigging on top of the wing. Again a length of thread was knotted and the rigging pulled through and secured with a drop of super glue. From there it's just a matter of in one hole and through another. It's easy to see a sensible path to take once you start. Keep the rigging tight by applying pressure as you go along-sometimes a piece of masking tape can be helpful. When the rigging is completed and you're sure it's good and tight a drop of super glue is applied to each rigging hole. Let it dry a good day. I learned the hard way some time ago that some glue may not be set and a piece of rigging can pull free. Once you're courageous enough and you're sure the glue's set you remove the thread between the holes on the top of the upper wing and bottom of the lower wing with a razor blade of sharp x acto.
In this photo you can see the thread running between the holes on the top wing (on the white areas-running fore/aft)
When that's done you have to sand the areas where you trimmed the rigging smooth, usually not too bad of a job. Then repaint over the repair.(alternatively you can just leave painting the upper wing top and lower wing bottom 'till after you've rigged. You must do this when using lozenge decals.
About this time I had an "Oh Crap!" moment when I realized the horizontal tail planes needed black stripes. The stripes are included in white on the decal sheet-meaning I was supposed to paint the tail plane black. Well since I didn't I masked off and painted the black stripes. The prop and spinner were painted also.
At this time the plane was given a coat of future and when dry the lozenge was applied to the lower wing and the decals were applied to the fuselage followed by another topcoat of future.
I gave the plane a bit of oil streaking by spraying a light coat of leather-it's a nice red/brown and I like it for this effect-a long the upper fuselage and top wing. Then I streak it by dragging a brush dipped in thinner through it in line with the airflow. Because there's a coat of future under the oils spray dragging the thinner dipped brush through it will not pull up the paint underneath. You can also remove paint in this way if there's too much or if it looks too dark.
When you're happy with that you can dull coat it, I added a windscreen cut from clear plastic. That's Eduard's DVa in a nutshell.