<p>So, what to place on the Low Loader? Two car models do not fit, only one.</p>
<p>Of course, a Priestman Earth Digger!!!! I have several oldies in my scrap,and I choose the worst one.</p>
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<p>If ever you decide on restoring one, be sure that the tracks ae still on, and the little plastic device which opens and closes the lower lid on the arm is still there.</p>
<p>With the one the 'engine'no longer workeds, so I took this 'baby' apart to see if it could be repaired (I did several in the past, so I know what to do).</p>
<p>There is a very strong clip underneath holding the wheels to the model. Strong and thin plyers were used to take it off.</p>
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<p>Three rivets holding the base to the cabin.</p>
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<p>The base (left) has a small lever/axle, on which a small block (one piece). The block can either be lifted or lowered. When lowered it sticks into one of the two holes in the centre of the wheels-part on the right. The part cannot be taken out without breaking, so I always leave it in. The system can lock or unlock the lower wheels part so the cabin is either locked or can rotate. A very clever and simple Corgi gadget!</p>

<p>Well, as we have a few watchers, I might as well carry on!</p>
<p>My oh my, look at that mess inside. It seems as if the previous owner played with it in the sea......will it ever work again?</p>
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<p>First things first. The four wheels come off quite easy.</p>
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<p>The cabin in which the driver sits is two tranparant plastic parts. They fall apart when the cabin is taken out of the upper shell.</p>
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<p>Inside a soft rubber driver and a one-piece control unit with three levers.</p>
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I have done a few of these and they are complicated but not really hard to do. The tricky part is the plug that holds the elastic cord for the boom. You have to give it the right tension or it will not work properly. The cord has to be Elastic or it will not work at all. I remember having quite the time with the drivers compartment with the 2 windows and putting it back together. After taking it in and out a few times It was not as hard as i thought. So far this thread is interesting and I have my builds on here somewhere too. I did 3 for a lady in the states.

<p>Thanks Jim, as you know me, I make the story when I already finished the model. So......I just took a break.</p>
<p>With the right elastic cord that part is not so hard. I will explain that later. I know what you mean with the driver being placed back, but a small camera on the workbench is a help. That way you know how things go one way, and then you know how they go the other way. I remember doing that for the first time taking the Bond Aston apart!</p>
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<p>Over to the mechanism.</p>
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<p>After cleaning and looking at the picture you see the main thing which is wrong is the little cog wheel on the right is not in line with the bigger cog wheel under it.</p>
<p>Ok, the outside knob is attached to the axle leading inside. The axle has two little brass cog wheels. They are meant to stay in place on the axle. They both move the bigger gray wheels. These gray wheels are attached to thr digger arm.</p>
<p>The little brass cog wheel on the left is ok, and only functions as a 'mover' to the bigger wheel. As you can see the little brass cog whele on the right ha a slightly different shape than the one on the left.</p>

<p>Not only does it move the bigger cog wheel, but also it drives the clicking sound. Above the little wheel on the right there is steel sheet, attached by an 'o' ring to the housing, to simulate an engine sound.  The sheet touches the little cog wheel on one side slightly, and this works better when the teeth on that side are slightly filed off.</p>
<p>So the little wheel came loose on the axle. Taking the axle out of the housing does not make sense, because it has thick and thinner parts. Meaning this was either done when the axle was IN the housing, or pressed in under pressure.</p>

<p>So I used a long players, and pressed where the arrows are. After a few tries the little cog wheels then came back where it should be.</p>
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<p>To prevent the cog wheel to 'move' again, I placed a hollow VHS tube over the axle. This tube could be opened length wise, placed on the axle, and then pressed and closed.</p>
<p>Here the wheel is back in place.</p>
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<p>and her with the tube in place.</p>
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Very good idea with the tube or sleeve you have made. fixes the problem just fine.

A couple pictures of the inside from a different angle. This one has visible wear on the gears. You can see how the flapper spring is mounted too.

<p>Thanks for those Jim. Do you remember what yours did not do or did do? And did you repair it?</p>
<p>How is that wheel damaged? Probably because the knob was turned the wrong way. There is an arrow on the knob pointing clockwise (as there are arrows on the Thames Musical ice cream van and Batmobile). Turning the knob in the wrong direction can actually not be done, as the clicker can only go one way over the cog wheel. Suppose the owner forced the knob the wrong way, then the cog wheel would be damaged.</p>