When using the chrome tape, if you rub it onto the surface for a while it goes nice & smooth & should go into the lines.

OK, I'll give it a go.

The tape you are talking about is used to seal duct work on furnaces to keep the joints in the pipes from leaking the air meant for other places in your home. I have a roll but be careful with it as what I have is so sticky that if you miss your mark you will have a time getting it off where you stuck it and the piece you cut to fit is now useless and you have to start over. Only way I have found to get it back off is to scrape it with a knife. I messes up on some duct work here in my basement a few years ago and it now looks a mess as all I could do was put another piece over top. It would be almost impossible to make it fit into the grooves as it would tear. Once on, it is on, just like contact cement. Get it right the FIRST time or not at all.

Thanks for the advice. On reflection I'll go with Bare Metal Foil - it has the right sheen and I'm savvy with it, having used it for decades. I find it is one of the most forgiving materials I use when modeling - screw up and you just remove it and do it again.

I think you can use chroom paint to spray that and use decals on clear decal paper.

BMF would be a lot easier than masking and spraying.

FWIW I'd probably go bare metal foil, but if you have a steady hand (your kits suggest you do and then some!) don't discount a liquid chrome pen. As far as I'm aware there are ridges to butt up against, too?

Gives the same or better results too if you have been using BMF for that long. I got a bit from a friend in the States but I could not get it to work for me. I guess I needed a bit of instruction as what I did try to do on a plastic models bumpers did not work out at all. Looked a mess when I was done so I just stripped it off and painted silver.

Yes, BMF on complex shapes like bumpers is only for the very brave - which counts me out. Great for trim and flat surfaces though.


Personally I like the look of silver paint on Dinky/Corgi restorations best. I will try and airbrush it when I get that far. Do you know how it was done originally?

As far as I know they are chrome stickers with the words and logo already printed. I have the logo but not the works. I would need the dimensions of the logo and maybe the words too. I should be able to reproduce the logo as I already have it. It is matching the font and style of the letters I have to figure. Just looked again ( had to go back a page) and I have the Corgi word for you, just need size and I am sure I could do the Cars from the font I am using already. And I can do in on Clear so the chrome shows through the logo and you don't have to worry about cutting out on white paper. Just not sure how dark I can make the red on clear. Not the best color for that.

Here some of mine. The left one redone by hand.

Nobleco and Keesie, thanks so much for your thoughtful input - much appreciated.


But I'm inclined to just cover up the offending panel with foil and leave it for the meantime. The other side is like new and that's how I display it. If the model was otherwise mint or I was planning a full restoration the idea of custom-made decals would be appealing though.

I bought a couple of fully restored Ford H trucks from Jim (Nobleco) when his deal with the other fella fell through. I have three trailers and no trucks.
One kinda looks like one drawn in a catalog. Fairly certain did not sell like this. Since replaced that trailer with a better one.

I was going to buy a Dinky Pullmore Transporter like the one I had as a boy. But then I noticed that the Corgi Ford was closer in scale to the cars I have. They are also less expensive, always a consideration for me - that's why none of my diecasts are what you would call mint. But, like a lot of people here, I'm quite happy with a few dings and chips.

That is also what I do. I buy Corgi Toys for restoration.


And i do the restorations myself. Than you have the Toys in top condition.