It is good that you are thinking about why things were done the way they were done.

The original rubber bands have ribs. As you said, the front 'line' moves when rotating the handle. The front axle has teeth, and the handle is a direct connect to that axle.

The rear line has a flat axle, and although it also rotates by turning the handle, on it's own it is to weak to move the rubber belt, which would slip on the axle.

Because there are ribs in BOTH rubber belts, the front rubber ribs touch the ribs of the rear one where they come together, and that way the front one takes along the rear one. That way they stay in line also as both rubber belts have ribs which each have the same distance and which also could carry one sack in the space between two ribs.


So the rear line 'sets' intself into a position according to the front line.

Suppose both axles would have teeth. Then both lines would work independant from one another, and both axles would force the rubber belt to move. When ribs of both belts would not touch one another at the right spot at a certain moment, they would not touch another permanently. So the belts would both move, but not work together.

There is far more to say about the model. I asked Modelcarparts, the Dutch parts shop, how this is done. He also sells the repro rubber no end bands. There is no explain how to do it either. Thing is, those sellers are NOT restorers. You have to find your own way in this field.


The bands have a smooth inner, the side touching the axles. Just in case you might have thought the teeth of the axle would grip into holes or such. Originally the bands are very tight on the model, so therefore the axle-teeth grip into the rubber.


On the side where you see through the plastic glazing to see the system, is the same sort of gadget as on the Mercedes Pullman. Also the complete build up was also done on a conveyor trailer, done in Gift set 47.

Keesie... I was intrigued and appreciative of your explanation as to why the rollers are different.  Forgive me if I am wrong, however if you look at it closely the rollers BOTH move in the same direction when the handle is turned as you know. That means when the FRONT roller is turning, the front belt is pulling Upward where the two belts meet. The REAR roller is of course rotating the belt in the same direction, but is feeding the belt Downward . For clarification when I describe The Upward & Downward, I  refer to where the two Belts meet in the center when they rotate....
Why is this important? Because if the Belt is ribbed and the RIBS touch, then that would mean each rib as it passes each other would be pushing against the opposite rib belt in the other direction while its roller was turning. So one belt is not helping the other to travel, it's the rollers only. 


It's easier for me to picture this since I have the mechanism in front of me.....  


So I think the mystery of why one roller has ridges and the other is smooth remains a mystery... at least to me!

Your very kind and would enjoy the tour, however being in San Diego, California at the present would make the trip a bit long at the moment. Maybe for our next holiday it can be included!

MR, now......I am intrigued! I must confess my explain was wrong. Both central rollers indeed go into the same direction. Therefore they should NOT have an effect on one another or help each other, right? Still, both SHOULD roll by turning the handle, and they do. My explain would not make sense anyway: when the farmer places a sack on one end, it should travel over BOTH bands to whatever, probably a truck, at least higher up than the surface. Also the farmer places his sack on the part of the band at the rear of the car. In my explain the sack would only travel half way, and then gets stuck in the centre. Let us carry on thinking about it........

Steve Flowers had an explaination sheet:


www.ebay.ie/itm/Corgi-GS64A-FC-Jeep-Conv...e6123:g:1sYAAOSwIWVY


Now, probably in there is how you take the model apart and how to put the new parts in. It probably will not explain why there are two different rollers.......

Thank you for confirming my thoughts....  I think now we BOTH understand how this works, but not the Corgi designers original reason for this. 


While just turning the handle on it now I thought this:

You mentioned that the original "bands" were very tight...(I almost recall that from 50+ years ago)  And since the Lower conveyor measures 70mm long,  the Upper conveyor is somewhat longer at 103mm......  is is likely that they found the shorter conveyor rotated well, but when they tried the longer upper conveyor, it slipped! So they tried a roller with grooves to really grip the belt and guarantee rotation.

And why did they not simply install a grooved roller for the bottom also? It would have cost more and just a plastic one was cheaper....

Yes.... This is the seller that I had originally found. I emailed him but he has yet to respond.......It's been a week.  I hoped he understood my question as I explained I just wished to confirm it could be replaced without me doing great damage by my inexperience. I just needed a peek at the instructions.

The most simple explain would indeed be that a plastic roller is less expensive than a metal+teeth one. In this case I doubt this though: look at the metal rolller. It seems one complete piece from handle to cog wheel inside the transparant plastic. Moulding one piece has a certain price. Now look closely at the other axle with the plastic surround. Also this axle is metal, from one side to the cog wheel. Inside the transparant plastic you can see the end of it is a small separate part to hold the axle/wheel in place in the plastic.


After that one was made, no doubt the plastic part was welded (is that the right word?) around it. Also the plastic roller does NOT run 'free' from the axle: it is clamped/glued on the metal. So this one could have been made out of one piece metal as well. What is cheaper: make one metal piece, or make a metal piece and add a plastic part to it lateron?

Of course you are correct....  Too bad we can't get Corgi to comment on this.....  You would think they would have a Customer Relations Department that would cater to their many obsessive fans......


I'll keep you posted if "Steve Flowers Model Supplies" does get back to me with the instructions.  I'm hoping he's just on holiday.


It's been fun discussing this with you... Thanks again!

Yes, it is great to have discussions like these, hope Steve Flowers can enlighten us!


There is no Customer Relations Department, at least, that club is not interested in collectors of old models. They are in it for the money only. I offered them pictures of new proiects like my Beatles mobile and Road Rover among others, but there is just no reply, or one person mailing: ''I will pass this on to....". Indicating that the person himself is not interested in the first place. And there is never an answer after that.

Interesting topic and discussion. I have just received an email from Erica, one of the ladies working at SF Model Supplies. It does take them time as they have a lot of work. I asked my question about the Moko Lesney Prime Mover and wanted to know if they make the wheels. That was about 2 weeks ago now. Don't think they are on holidays, just takes time as they are the worlds largest supplier. If Steve has instructions and you did not buy the tracks from him, he might sell you just the instructions. I don't have them. I do have the Blaw Knox track installation instructions and the instructions for the Dinky Manure Spreader Drive Spring installation. He will want a small fee for just the instructions I am sure. Not sure if Rob in Holland has the instructions.
As to putting it back together, Steve sells small rivets made from white metal. I also sell them on my eBay store. I am in BC Canada and I am closer than Steve or Keesie for that matter. I just sell them for more money but you would have them in less than 10 day instead of about 2 to 3 weeks for SF.
Welcome to Planet Diecast from the Great White North. about 100 F or 38 C here this past weekend and no end in site. Getting hotter too.

Thank you Jim for your thoughts...


In this case the "Rivet" that I refer to is not a separate part, but is really just the tip of one of the two castings that extends 21mm from one side to the other with the belts and drive mechanism in between. The casting "pylon" shape as I like to call it protrudes through one side and is then afixed by dimpling the center to create the connection... likely done by a press when manufactured. It was suggested I could use adhesive/epoxy to reconnect it afterwards, but I would likely try drilling and tapping the hole (it's tiny!) in my drill press and using a screw to join it.


As Steve is the only source for the Belts  & instructions, I'm hoping he understands he would be the only one I would go to if I can safely disassemble the conveyor. I didn't think it was too much of an ask to understand what I would be facing before taking on the project.


I hope your area cools down soon as I know you have the same issues with wildfires as we have here in San Diego......


Best regards......

And I neglected to mention in addition that I believe I asked him to also confirm that we are indeed speaking of the same model. Mine is marked as the "Jeep FC-150".....  while he lists the part as for a "GS64A FC Jeep".....


Now I have seen this same jeep with a different Rear Bed Device,,,,, It was a Hydraulic Man Lift if I recall......  Maybe that's why the difference, but the picture on his ad shows my version....


Again.. just hoping he takes pity on me and will share......

The Jeep FC150 was used by Corgi in several versions. There are plain versions, one with a tilt, one called a 'çherry picker'. The last one has a man in a basket, checking high lampposts. In fact, I finished one of those today!