<p>And finally here two 'versions' of nr 205M, the Riley Pathfinder. As you can see one is painted black (original) on the inside.</p>
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This is interesting and I think it has been gone over before. At least i have seen the flywheel motor pictured here before. That is what it is called. The two gears under the rear differential cover are called the crown and pinion gears. The larger one being the crown. This transfers motion in a right angle from the rear wheels and axle. Square axle was a good design and kudos to the designer on this one. The pinion should have been solid like the crown gear.
The larger gear probably has a inset design with more teeth for the smaller gear Kees mentioned that is under the larger gear we can see that is under the flywheel. The small wheel spins the larger wheel faster due to the difference in gearing which then spins the flywheel in turn. There will be more gears on the underside of that flywheel If I am correct. There will also be some sort of mechanism like a clutch to release the gears to the flywheel can spin freely after being powered by the other gears. Not sure where that may be but under the flywheel somewhere. Depends on how far Kees dismantled these but I bet he has pictures of that too, somewhere.

<p>excellent Keesie, thanks for the pics (which I can see now that I am at home) When I turn the rear wheels I can see the large fly wheel spin so I assume the gears from the axle to the fly wheel are all connected, aligned and have their teeth. But when I push on the car and let go, it just stops. No forward momentum. So the gears for the momentum to allow the car to go seem to be where the issue lies. I dont know if I want to open her up though to fix it.</p>
<p>And the motor makes quite a bit of noise</p>

<p>Thanks guys. The pictures are all from models I did several years ago, so I have to dig them up from an external hard drive.</p>
<p>Sometimes I use the wrong word for a detail or wheel, but I am sure you are getting the point.</p>
<p>So Jim,the pinion is the wheel on the rear axle. The second on is the crown, but this is actually one part with a third wheel. I will explain this with the pictures.</p>
<p>Tick, two things were prone to adjusting, and make the system go wrong. Firstly the weak  pinion wheel, as explained before. The second weak point is the iron cover, covering the big fly wheel. As it is attached to the baseplate at three points, the distance between the horizontal part and the flywheel is minimal. Therefore, the slightest bit of rust, or miss-alignment of the flywheel will cause the two parts catching each other, and the flywheel will not run freely.</p>

<p>Ok, from the start. These pictures are from the first flywheel motor Corgi did, the Ford Consul nr 200M. Compare them with the earlier ones I placed, and you will notice the iron cover and the way it is placed changed from model to model. Especially the two points in the centre of the base are higher up with this Consul than with later models.</p>
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<p>These models wer of course far heavier and more expensive than the plain ones. Also because the system was bound to go wrong, Corgi did not continue the M's. Still, it is a proven fact that if you handled them they way they should, they would have lasted far longer......all of mine work!</p>
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<p>Second picture, the points where the iron cover sheet is attached to the base are not rivited, but sort of pressed. Too much tension to one side (from the flywheel) could cause the points to disconnect from the base.</p>
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<p>Once the cover is removed, you can take the flywheel out.</p>
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<p>And finally the last wheel.</p>
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<p>Here a picture from the side. Only the rear axle is missing.</p>
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<p>You can see there is only a small gap between flywheel and iron cover. If Corgi would have made the cover higher up (there was still room for this inside the model), then the prpblem of the two parts catching would be solved, but then another problem would rise: the flywheel then needed a longer axle, and therefore become more wobbly, not rotating in a straight line. Also you can see the iron sheet is holding the flywheel and the sprocket wheel in place.</p>
<p>With a system like this you have to make the moving parts and connections as minimal and short as possible, otherwise there will be too much movement in the wrong directions.</p>

Very nice and an easy description to follow. Thanks for digging out your pictures. I knew you had them. We all should understand these motors now.

Thanks Keesie, I will look at this pics you posted when at home. Yes, your description makes sense regarding friction/rubbing. Maybe the large flywheel is rubbing and not freely moving thus the motor just stops when I stop pushing.

Could also be carpet fluff stuck in the gears. That will come in through the wheel wells I would suspect. A look inside is warranted, I think.

<p>Jim, that could be, but with Ticks one he can see the flywheel move pushing the car forward. That probably means nothing blocking up the system, up to the flywheel that is.</p>

But he said the flywheel stops when he stops pushing. Something is stopping the flywheel so probably has to come apart of see what is stopping it. Like you have shown, it could be rust under that retainer plate;

<p>All I can say is that sometimes, when the rear glazing is still clear, and also through the hole of one of the rear wheels, you can see the flywheel which should move very fast. I looked at the M series on Ebay, and prices have gone really up for those. I have two restored 205M Riley Pathfinders for sale.</p>