The Mustang looks very good. Did you know the 320 has the dog in the rear, and this one has not? Further, as I restored a lot of those, all had plastic suspension but one, which had steel wire. A lot of those are done with a sort of wrong mould, because both A-pillars are not equal.


Wow, good buy, an intact beast carrier too. I remember we had a discussion about the plastic cover, which came with the Dodge 484 beast carrier I bought, but it actually belongs to the model you are showing.

Nice catch on the Beast Carrier. You even have the floor and net that comes with it and is so often lost. You even have the "foot" to rest the front end of the trailer on when off the truck. It looks great.
Your Mustang, are they stickers? The grille is, I can see it. If the numbers are stickers then you have to loosen the glue. Do you have any Acetone? It will loosen the glue holding bubble packages like Hot Wheels and Matchbox cars have. You need a brush and just dab some on the edges of the decals. It should not hurt the decal or the paint from what I have been told.
Has anyone tried that here? I have not, yet but have heard it does work.

Thanks guys.


Yes Keesie, I did know the 320 had the dog and the 325 did not. I guess they didn't add the pup for the 325 as it was the sportier model with racing stripes. They didn't want the poor thing getting hurt as the sportier 325 raced around boys bedroom floors. hahahaahhaha


I had no clue about the suspensions though, thanks for details.


Thanks for the tip Jim. These are practically falling off anyways so I should be ok with just a dab of warm water. I have used acetone to remove the gummy residue left from decals that have fallen off. Using just a tad worked fine without paint damage.

Indeed, no dog in the sporty Mustang. However, there is always an exception to that rule.......


  By the way, does yours have diamond headlights?

Interesting read this morning while having my coffee arose from Ticks postings on the Mustang 320 and 325 while some light shines on those diamond lensed headlights. Not to forget the steering mechanism by Keesie.


Yes I do remember something about the Beast Carrier plastic netting. Good to see one in really good condition complete with net and animals.

The other Tips on repairing decals from Jim is another bonus for us all. Well done chaps, cheers.

Nice and minty Keesie! And the dog is great. Should have been added to all the Mustangs originally


Yes, mine has jewelled headlights. Were they not all fitted with them?

Thanks Tick, it is a resto of course. Ok, let's not confuse things.
There were basicaly 3 Mustangs of this type:

nr 320 civilian, various colours, dog, diamond headlights

nr 325 competition, only in white/red striping, no dog, diamond headlights

nr 348 flower power, only in light blue/flower stickers, no dog, diamond headlights. 


I had the idea one of them did not have diamonds but all boxes say they do.

I cant even post a new thread and since we cant reply, I need to use quick reply. I wanted to post a question about Corgi motorised models. I figured a quick reply here was the best place even though I wanted to started to a new thread.
I'm frustrated too because I just realised all the typing I did was for not, when the thread didn't post. I'm not about to re type my little story either. So I'll just pose the question. Sorry, for the poor attitude.

How do the Corgi M series original releases (mid 1950's) work to wind the motors?
Are you suppose to pull back or push forward to wind the motors to set the car in motion?

Thanks

You should be able to post with any of the post buttons but Quick Reply is the only one that does not put HTML code in your text. Pictures have to be posted through third party and you probably can't do that a work.
You should be able to post a new thread as I just did in the Bugs and issues area called "Testing New Topic Button" So if you can't, I don't know why.
I think you pull back to wind the motor as there is no key for them that I am aware of.

<p>For what it is worth right now with all this wierd things going on the forum, the M models appeared more or less simultaniously with the non-motorized versions in the 50's. About two years later to follow by two-tone versions, most of those are not motorized.</p>
<p>The 'motor' was not supplied with a spring, which you might think. The rear axle has a small 'hollow' sprocket wheel, touching a small horizontal inner sprocket wheel. This wheel is one part with a -also-  horizontal big heavy wheel. The model is pushed forward gently to let the small wheel make the big one move. When there was enough speed/movement in the big one, the car could travel a certain distance forward.</p>

Thanks Keesie. That's what I thought. Usually the pull back style winds tight a spring. You can often see the spring get tighter and tighter as you keep pulling back. The when you let go the spring releases and gives momentum to the car. These Corgi M series don't seem to have the large spring. I can see the gears though (through the windows). The rest of the mechanism is sealed so I cant see how the complete motor works. I assumed it was a push forward type where you push and the car will continue in a forward motion. When I try the motor does seems to engage (resistance) and the gears turn, but there is no continued momentum. Maybe my gears are pooched or I wasn't pushing enough. There is a small hole for oiling, so I will try that too.

Thanks

<p>Tick, there is no spring at all in the M-series. I have them all, and I had to restore several of those. The baseplates of the non motorized ones were just a sheet of tin. As you can see with yours the baseplate for the M-series was a special design, and all came without suspension. The upper shell and windows were the same in M and non-M. There ware also three different type of boxes: plain blue for the one colour, yellow/blue for the two-tones and a blue box with red signs on the lids, reading '200M' and 'mechanical', and so on.</p>

<p>Here some pictures.</p>
<p>The little central part has indeed a small hole and the word 'oil' next to it. The little part can not be taken off, but in this picture takne off, to resotre the sproeckert wheel underneath.</p>
<p>

</p>

<p>The rear axle is not round, but square. This way it holds the sprocket wheel better. This sprocket wheel is made of tin, and hollow on one side. Using too much force on the model to 'wind' it, will cause this wheel to loose it's teeth, and also it can move out of place on the axle, causing the wheel not to have any or enough grip on the next small sprocket wheel you can just see inside the baseplate.</p>
<p>This inside sprocket wheel is solid, and of far better quality than the cheap tin one. You figured, the tin wheel is the weak point in the system.</p>

<p>Here the inside. The sheet covering the big wheel is plain iron, causing a lot of these models to get rusty inside. As you can see this one looks great.</p>
<p>

</p>
<p> </p>
<p>In the picture underneath you can see a smaller wheel, attached to the big and heavy fly-wheel. Underneath this smaller wheel is an even smaller wheel, not visable. This one is touching the sprocket wheel in the ball.</p>
<p>

</p>