Looking superb Wolter.
Thanks for the details photos.

And good seeing this topic being renewed after all these years

A diffent way of tackling the same problem. nice to see. Great job and I also note that you used a blind screw or just tapped the flat deck to take a short screw to hold the deck on and for the spare tire mount. That is a nice clean look you have not. Great job and thanks for showing.

How about this for a load Wolter?

Thanks for that. Cool as.

AJS, Krul,     Wolter.       Well Done.    


        The idea to save a toy has cought on. The project was worth it.     YES


                                    "IT LOOKS FACTORY TO ME"      


 


 


 


dinkyboy

Thank you all for your rsponse!


Erwin: here in the Netherlands we have a society called "KEEP THEM ROLLING".


This is a club of people whith old military vehicles and their aim is to keep the rolling.


This credo comes from WW2 during the liberation of Europe.


In my opinion, in a modest way, this counts for Toy restorers as well.


 


Theo: tanx for the tip,  I took a look at eBay it is a nice shop who sell.


But I have to find a playworn flatbed first for my second Foden to put a load on.


 


Jim: I add a detailed picture of the positioning of the spare wheel. 


In this case 








a replica spare wheel from MK-models.


I use stainless steel nails with a domed head to make this kind of rivets which I glue in position with a 2-component Locktite epoxy.


I made it long enough to hold the flatbed as well.


 


Best Regard - Wolter.

Very nice!

That is one way to attache the tires and the deck. I assume you have filled in the hole on the deck where the original bolt would have been. Tapered or counter sunk hole too.

Hi Jim,


First I made an Alu  stub end for the flatbed with M3 thread in it to fill up the space between the chassis and the deck.


It was screwed and glued with a very short M3 screw to the under side of the deck taking care that there was a few mm left inside the stub to take the rivet (made from the stainless steel nail) later from the underside to fix the deck.
































 


Then I filled up the head of te screw in the flatbed because I wanted it to be flat over all.










Best Regards - Wolter.

Wow - better than new!  You have great metal working skills!

Great work Wolter,
could you show which Locktite you use?
I am not familiar with the brand and still looking for a good and strong epoxy filler/glue

Below is what is available for replacing the original rivet or bolt for the Fodens and the Leylands. Comet truck gets one too.






Nice method you did use though and if all materials are at hand then there is not cost, just your labour.


Theo, Regular 2 part epoxy should be readly available at your hardware stores. Looks like a side by side syringe. Not expensive either. Any epoxy glue in two part form is very strong. It is sandable and drillable and sets quickly. Just mix it together on a piece of paper, plastic or metal and then use.

 

In my former post the text disappeared so here the text separately.