Hi guys,


I am quite newhere, so excuse me if this question was already answered in other topics. I like to make Code 3 models. I have a lot experience with plastc kits but the zinc alloys require different technologies. most of my projects have the diecast parts commected mechanically by means of screws and either cut threads or nuts. Sometimes however the mechanical connection is very complicated or impossible (f.e. cutting the car body to make a pick-up cab and to add the back of the cab) and in such case gluing would be a solution. But due the zinc alloy characteristic it is not easy to find such glue which would allow the further mechanical treatment like sanding or filing. What is your experience, what kind or brand do you use?


Thank you beforehand, Jan Mostek, Prague, Czech republic.

You're in luck. Quite a few master modellers in this forum modify and reinvent diecast models.

There are a couple of tutorials around.

this question has come up before , I had a look through the resto site to see if I could find the related post ....it is there somewhere

However this is what i use

It is an epoxy 2 component adhesive, when fully dried and cured it is as good as metal and can be worked exactly the same as metal, having a molecular weight of 700+

there is probably an equivalent if not the same product in CR

You could find out if there is a prague supplier they have an email       technical.services@henkel.co.uk

Yes. I use similar two part metal epoxy and a good strength super glue comes in handy at times. Jim or Nobleco has managed to solder Zamak but there is an art in it. I can at least say that, as my experiments have failed in most cases. I have managed to have the solder stick like the blob monster from outerspace.

When Jim first disclosed that he had managed to solder Zamak, I thought that I would have a go on a drop side trailer that had been stood on, the sides having both been flattened and when i tried to straighten them they both broke.

What i did was first remove paint then scrub the break with wire wool, next I fluxed the break and laid a length of three core solder along the whole length of the break, on the outside of the break I put a strip of putty, in an attempt to absorb some of the heat and to hold the side in place, making a 90 deg angle with a piece of wood in this case, with a fine point gas gun I ran along the solder in a continuous line and was fortunate that the solder did not run into blobs, oh I forgot to mention that I bashed the solder to flatten it a bit.

I then used an electric iron to smooth out the solder this worked in a fashion

BUT on the reverse of the join was still a hair line crack which still had to be filled in I did not try the solder idea on this side, as it would have probably melted the solder on the other side

drop side 2

 after straightening and cleaning off the paint, mixed enough epoxy to complete the job...not all that necessary as you can do it in stages, cut a piece of thick plastic to the size of the base, just to hold the side square, I then covered the long crack and the ends with epoxy and using three G clamps forced the whole thing together, leaving it overnight to harden and cure, next day using a needle file and a dremel I removed the excess epoxy

On the soldered side I had also filled in the outside crack with epoxy but found that attempting to smooth out the solder was not a sucess, in fact at one end the solder came off.

So as far as I am concerned epoxy over solder ....epoxy wins hands down 

I will have to leave the soldering to the expert

Chris

Jan Mostek, Nobleco welds the castings and has a past article in the Toycollector showing the work process. I do the mechanical (screws/rivets), also a past article in Toycollector.


     I am not good at the computer trying to locate these articles, but someone will get you there. For playworthy applications, these are the two most strongest and reliable methods.


     Referring to some of our personal pictures and albums may also help.


       Epoxy or soldering the metal castings do not offer strength, but are good for covering, and display applications.  They are also superior for plastics and resins.


       Experiment and practice with your trash materials until you find what best suits your needs.


      Best of luck.     dinkyboy

I use 2 part epoxy but ther are other options I have been looking at.


Micro Mark sells a plating tool intended for use with zamac.  It deposits a thin layer of copper which then should allow you to solder on top of the plating. 


www.micromark.com/Copper-Plating-Kit-For...-And-Steel,8419.html 


I haven't used the tool, I just remember book marking it for future use.


It is also worth looking at low temp solders as well


http://www.interhobmodels.com/id17.html

Mazak or Zamak is a Zinc alloy. You can not solder it with regular solder used for electronics or for tin. You need special solder and special flux. The flux is super flammable so you Can Not use a flame. You have to use a heat gun and you need over 400 degrees F to heat and melt the solder. It is used to join Copper to Aluminum in the Air Conditioning Industry and is not cheap. Solder kit and paste was $50 and the heat gun I have is a Steinel and cost me $250.

Hi guys,


Thank you all for exhausting answers. I guess that my being the former plastic modeller I will keep on gluing so the good epoxy will be the right solution for me. I tried it in the past and was curious what brands are used by experts.


Good luck to everybody from Prague,


Jan Mostek